Shopping
Medina Shopping in Morocco
The donkey, its baskets laden with wood shavings, winds down the narrow alley. Shoppers, themselves carrying bundles of the day's vegetables or a side of freshly slaughtered lamb, yield right of way.
This medieval market plays out daily in the streets of Morocco. Lying at the crossroads of Africa and Europe, for centuries Morocco has served as a place to buy and sell goods ranging from magic potions to magic carpets, from brass goods to burnooses.
Souks are found in many of Morocco's cities but the most expansive shopping areas lie in the cities of Marrakech and Fes. Here within the ancient walls of the medina, daily life follows a centuries-old pattern. Goods are haggled for in tiny shops and stalls, often over glass after glass of what might be considered the national drink--hot mint tea as sweet as liquified chewing gum. Craftsmen pound out designs on brass, as the echoes reverberate along narrow passageways where veiled women move through the day's activities.
The heart of Marrakech's shopping experience is found at Jemaa el Fna. In this sprawling square performers gather in the late afternoon and into the evening. Watch a cobra dance to the sway of a wooden flute, photograph the colorful watersellers with their chests covered in dangling brass cups or have a look at the "dentist," whose quick extraction skills are advertised by a table full of teeth. Behind the square lies the souk, with miles of twisting walkways that offer an array of goods.
Marrakech's souk is best known for its circus-like square, a dramatic stage that's fascinating for the shopper and non-shopper alike. In the city of Fes, however, the souk is a practical market, used primarily by local residents as they carry out the business of daily life. Since medieval times, the souk has been reserved for pedestrians -- and donkeys -- only. Keep an ear out for cries of "barek" to warn of incoming donkey deliveries.
Whether you shop the souks of Marrakech, Fes, or one of Morocco's other cities, you'll find the narrow, winding streets and alleys of the souk are far more orderly than they first appear. Specialty souks within the souk are devoted to fabrics, spices, meats, brass and ironwork, clothing, and other wares. The meat souk, with its open-air displays of goat heads, sheep feet and live chickens, is best experienced in the morning hours, before the heat of day turns the sometimes stagnant air foul.
You'll want to budget at least one entire day for shopping the souk, even longer if you're a dedicated bargain hunter. Here's a run down of some of the top souk offerings:
Moroccan Carpets
An unforgettable part of any souk experience is a visit to the rug merchant. Expect to drink three or four glasses of sweet mint tea and spend at least half a day in during negotiations for one of Morocco's top products.
To step into the store of a rug merchant is to walk into a den of designs, no two of them alike. "There is no plan; each is in the mind of the ladies who make them," explained Mr. Youssaf, spokesperson for La Porte d'Or in Marrakech. Fifteen types of Moroccan rugs and carpets are found in shops throughout the area from the High Atlas rugs, made with 100% wool and dyed with vegetable colors to the woven and embroidered Kilim rugs.
Prices vary with the degree of work, from US $6,000-$12,000 for a High Atlas carpet to US $5500 for a reversible carpet (with a summer and winter side) to as little as US$150 for a kilim rug. Prices are generally one-half to one-third of those found in the US. Arrangements can be made with merchants for shipping and delivery to be included in the negotiated price.
Leather Goods
Although fine leatherwork is sold in souks throughout Morocco, the best selection is found in Fes. This city is home to an expansive tannery, one of Africa's most photographed sites. Although we were warned of its odoriferous qualities (leather is treated in vats that contain everything from pigeon droppings to lime), our guide provided us with a sprig of mint to smell during our view of the multi-colored vats that produce some of the area's finest leather goods.
Purses (US$10 and up), sequin-dotted leather camel toys (US$3-5), and babouches or soft slippers (US$3-$25) were some of the most popular items in the tannery store. Outside, street vendors sell colorful billfolds embossed with Moroccan designs for as little as US$2.50.
Traditional Dress
Another shopping experience in the souk is the dress shop. Caftans, traditional women's dress, and the djellaba, a long man's garment with a deep, pointed hood, are available in a variety of styles and materials ranging from cotton to polyester to silk. Prices start at about US$25 and go as high as $600 for a special occasion garment.
Look for other traditional wear as well. The burnoose, an elegant hooded cape, can sell for US$450. Djellabas come in three styles: Arab (large, flowing garments), Berber (with straighter lines) and Pasha (a two-piece garment worn for special events).
Need an inexpensive gift? Veils that double as scarves average US$12-20.
Pharmacies
Even if you're feeling perfectly healthy, don't miss the chance to visit a Moroccan pharmacy. Like a witch doctor's den, these mysterious shops tucked in the souk's alleys, offer local residents cures for everything from toothaches to arthritis to broken hearts. Powders and potions, concocted of local herbs, not to mention dried lizards seen hanging on the walls, provide a cure for whatever ails you.
Travelers will be especially interested in the spices and perfumes. Saffron can be purchased for about US$2 per gram (minimum of five grams). Moroccan curry, a different blend than Indian curry, and a heady mix of Moroccan spices called "Head of the Store" are popular choices.
In the natural pharmacies, you'll also find stencils for henna designs (US$1), kohl eyeliner (US$3), musk (US$3 per gram) and numerous oils.
Tips for Souk Shoppers
v Get a supply of Moroccan coins for tipping. Tips are expected for photos; the going rate is 1 to 5 Dirhams (10 to 50 cents US).
v Exchange only as much money as you expect to spend. Always exchange money in banks or at the larger hotels, never on the street. The official currency is the dirham (dh). At press time, the exchange rate was about US$1 = 10 Dh.
v Credit cards are accepted for larger purchases but carry cash for most souk buys.
v Negotiation is the name of the game. When presented with a price, counter with a price of about 1/3 the amount. Keep the process friendly yet firm. If you counter with a final offer and are allowed to walk away from the shop, you've obviously underestimated the value.
v A guide is an invaluable asset in the winding, twisting alleys of both Fes and Marrakech. Licensed guides can be recommended by the hotels.
v Don't plan to shop much on Fridays, the Muslim holy day. Most stalls close at noon or 12:30.
v Watch your belongings. Pickpockets roam the souks.
v Be prepared to be jostled. The souks are crowded, especially in Fes.
Additional Marrakech Suggestions
If you feel like venturing out of Marrakech’s Medina we can suggest the following locations for a more relaxed & upscale shopping experience.
The louche glamour that wafted through 1970's Marrakech still lingers. And since Morocco’s dapper King Mohammed VI, who can be spotted jogging in the city, has made tourism a priority, human traffic is growing denser.
The bargains inside the Medina, Morocco's largest walled city, are legendary, as are the diesel-infused dust and aggressive hucksterism. It's not a place you can whip through for a quick afternoon of kilim and caftan hunting.
For that, grab a cab (pay no more than 30 dirhams, or about $3.50) and head five minutes northwest from the old city’s main square, Jemaa el Fna, up Avenue Mohammed V, to an area called Guéliz. You’ll find the same treasures, browsable in a few hours, with a lot more breathable air.
v Place Vendom – Bypass the Half-Birken knockoffs in the front (too obvious) and head for the back room, where Michael Kors-ish suede sheath dresses and skirts can be had for 2,450 dirhams (about €250). Leather pants, bombers and simple belts set the fashion mood more than the unusually kicky portrait of King Hassan II in a fringed cowboy jacket. 141 Avenue Mohammed V, tel: 44 43 5263
v Kechmara – In a land of terra-cotta dust and colorful tiles, this space-age, white-on-white café is a cool blast of Eurominimalist air. Light fare, espresso and the odd cream puff attract a clientele of hipster locals and trendy tourists. 3 Rue de la Liberte; tel: 44 42 2532
v Univers Caftan – This cedar-lined salon is the place for custom-fit caftans in cashmere, raw silk or shanting. Prices range from 1200 dirhams for embroidered cotton Caftans. Residence Arraha, 19 Rue Mauritane; tel: 44 43 9668
v L’Orientaliste - Chat for a bit with Place Vendome’s owner, Claude Amzallag, and he’ll usher you to his wife’s thriving arts-and-crafts outpost. Amid the gazelle-horn lighters and house-blended perfume oils are inlaid wood tables, carved settees and kilims that will erase the last trace of Ikea from your home. 11 and 15 Rue de la Liberte; tel: 44 43 4074
v Al BadII – If you crave real antiques, the collection of 18th century pottery and century old woven silk marriage belts offered here are well known. Asking prices of anywhere from 56,000 to 144,000 dirhams for good earthenware pieces from Fez are not uncommon. 54 Boulevard Moulay Rachid; tel: 44 43 1693
v Marrakech Cuir Artisanal Centre Commercial Pharmacy - Need some natural pigments for your latest painting project? Carmine-clay lip stain for a come-hither pout? Dried pomegranate to soothe that troubled belly? Skin-softening argan oil? Pop into this Berber pharmacy for an herbal shopping extravaganza. 3 Residence El Habib, 65 Boulevard El Mansour Eddahbi tel: 44 43 9258 |
